We left the martian landscapes of Mexican Hat with relief and drove the 350 plus miles to Taos in New Mexico. We were very excited about Taos, we had read a lot about the town and New Mexico was a new state which neither of us had visited before. Unfortunately Taos was a wash out – literally.
As we approached Taos we crossed a broad flat plain and could see the small town nestling at the foot of a range of mountains, we crossed the high bridge across the gobsmackingly deep canyon of the Rio Grande river and drove past the collection of very weird eco dwellings known as the Earth Ship community. Things were looking good even if it seemed a bit cloudy.
The bridge across the Rio Grande Gorge. Taos is on the horizon at the foot of the mountains.
Taos town was bigger, busier and there was more traffic than we had anticipated but there seemed to be a lot of quirky interesting looking shops and when we went for a stroll we found a great place to eat next to a fairly good bookshop so we felt pretty happy.
The next day we decided to drive out to the state park which straddled the Rio Grande Gorge and find a good walk, and we planned to drive the Enchanted Highway loop through the mountains the next day to try more mountain walks. After a fair bit of confusion when seeking advice on walks from the slightly deaf and very confused volunteer at the local visitors centre we set out on the trail to Arsenic Springs (enticing name). We expected this trail to descend some way into the gorge and then we planned to pick up the rim trail running parallel to the river as we didn’t fancy the 950 foot plus descent and ascent of a return trip to bottom of the gorge given the high temperatures and altitude. Because it was so hot we didn’t bother packing any water-proofs and just took a packed lunch, lots of water and some camera kit. In the end we decided to push on to the bottom of the gorge and spent a lovely couple of hours on the banks of the Rio Grande pottering about in the deep canyon.
Isabel descending into the Rio Grande Gorge
The Gorge of the Rio Grande
Isabel by the Rio Grande
By the time we started back up the very steep path up to the rim the clouds had started to gather which was at first a relief from the sun but then they rapidly darkened and we could hear thunder in the distance. As we slowly plodded upwards we decided that as Isabel’s ankle was playing up I would take both the backpacks and head up to the car and she would follow at her own pace. As I drew further and further ahead of her I could feel the first drops of rain from the very dark clouds now pressing in above us. The rain got steadily worse and Isabel disappeared from view below me. By the time I got to the car it was pissing down and the thunder and lightening was getting a bit intense. I dried off as best i could, slipped on a waterproof top and grabbing Isabel’s waterproofs I set of back down the gorge to find her.
Coming up had been very tiring, it was about as steep and hard as climbing a hundred flights of stairs continuously on rough ground, so I didn’t fancy going back down in the downpour but I thought I would meet up with Isabel pretty quickly before going too deep. As I negotiated each switch back and got further and further down into the gorge in the pouring rain I began to get more and more concerned that I could not see Isabel below. Maybe she had twisted an ankle and was now stuck down the gorge in the storm. I shouted her name but the noise of the storm just drowned my voice. Eventually after getting about halfway back down I reluctantly decided to head back up, but by now I was very keen to find her. Finally right at the top I heard her calling me from above. I finally reached her right at the rim by which time I was completely winded from my forced march back up the path driven by anxiety.
It turned out that isabel had been passed by a couple also coming up who were concerned about her being on her own in the storm and with no proper kit, so they had loaned her a waterproof top and kindly stayed with as they ascended. Unfortunately they had convinced her to strike off on a small side path not far from the top which led to their camp site and not the trail head we had started from. So Isabel and I had missed each other.
By the time we were reunited we were very wet and pretty pooped from the walk and the excitement and we were deeply irritated with ourselves for breaking just about every rule, no proper kit, separating etc.
The rain that arrived that day was unfortunately not a transitory phenomenon. The wet weather over Taos, and as we later realised over this whole part of the US, was a big static system and the day after our adventure in the Gorge it rained a fair bit and was overcast with low clouds so the mountain hikes were out. The weather continued to deteriorate and by our last day it settled in and we had over 24 hours of heavy rain falling from low and grey clouds. All a bit dispiriting, no hikes, no lovely vistas, and nothing much to do. The fiesta in the town was a wash out. In the end we visited the grave of Kit Carson and went to the movies to break up the tedium. We saw the film Inception which was really excellent – go and see it (in Crested Butte we went to see another movie “Day and Knight” – don’t see this movie, its so bad it will make your head hurt and your soul ache).
Wet weather in Taos New Mexico
Finally it was time to leave Taos and move onto Sedona in Arizona but on the way out of town we stopped off at the eco house community spread out across the plateau and collectively known as the Earth Ship Community. Lots of strange and oddly beautiful dwellings made from tires, bottles, tin cans and all completely self sufficient in terms of energy, water etc. It was very entertaining but I find green ideology tedious in the extreme and feel the Earth Ship community is little more than a novelty. I think that in 50 years if the community is still there it will be a just tourist attraction showing an odd turn of the century folly.
Part of the water recycling system in an Eco House
The Eco houses are partially made from old tire and tin cans embedded in cement
The journey to Sedona was a longish 450 miles on the Interstate, equivalent to our motorways, which meant fast speed but we knew it would be tedious and a bit stressful with more traffic and more big trucks than our usual two lane blacktop highways. We decided to break our journey overnight in the town of Gallup which is a sort of capital city for native americans, mostly Navajo but also Ute and Apache. The Interstate we were taking for almost the whole journey to Sedona was I40 which replaced and mostly obliterated the old famous Route 66 which linked Chicago to Loa Angeles.
Route 66
We tried driving some of the way on the remaining parts of Route 66 that run parallel to the Interstate but they are just fragments of this once great highway lined with poor little settlements and derelict buildings that once made a living from the passing traffic. Gallup itself was a bit depressing, both the highway and people traffic on the railroad line passing through town from the east to west coast have all but vanished and its was just an ugly strip town full of motels and native american craft shops. If you have ever seen Robert Crumb’s cartoon critiques of the ugliness of much of american highway urban sprawl you will get a fair idea of what Gallup looked like. We did manage to visit the native american museum but managed to miss the evening medicine man dance.
The next day we pushed on to Sedona but with two great stops en route. The first was at the beautiful Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park where we managed a short walk out into the badlands of the painted Desert itself. At times the texture of the landscape reminded me of the film of astronauts walking on the surface of the moon. It was very hot.
Isabel walking in the painted desert
Isabel finds some shade in the Painted Desert
The beautiful petrified wood in the Painted Desert
Tony walking across the lunar landscape
Later we stopped at Meteor Crater which is somewhere I have always wanted to visit. The impact crater is huge and the best preserved large meteor crater on earth. In the middle it is deeper than the Eiffel Tower. We walked a bit of the rim, gawped, visited the museum and then pushed on arriving in the wonderfully weird and wacky Sedona by early evening
Isabel on the outside rim of Meteor Crater
Meteor Crater
Tony on the rim of Meteor Crater





















































